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One of the Seven Wonders: Machu Picchu |
How
did I come to the decision to take a five day trek to Machu Picchu
instead of taking the train... Well I honestly cannot remember, and
in the week leading up to the trek, I began to ask myself that
question repeatedly.
Tracey
and I decided that we were conned into the trip by Walli; we couldn't
possibly say no to a 75 year old woman who made it sound like a walk
in the park. However, hiking 35 miles in high altitude is no walk in
the park.
After
sleeping on the cold floor in the Lima airport and getting my credit
card eaten by an ATM machine, we arrived in Cusco early Saturday
morning. Once you start walking, you notice the altitude difference
because there is less oxygen in the air and you become short of
breath immediately. We all took high altitude pills to prevent
altitude sickness and I think that helped a lot.
We
rented a really nice apartment within walking distance of the main
plaza. The first order of business was showering and napping. After
becoming real humans again, we headed to the grocery store to get
some food and we ended up stumbling upon a local market. I could have
stayed there all day, just shopping; everything was so cheap and
interesting.
Next
we explored the main square, Plaza de Armas. Cusco is a very cute and
clean city, I really liked it. After even more shopping, we had
dinner at Numa Raymi complete with real Pisco Sours.
Everything
we read on the internet said you should take it easy your first two
days in high altitude to let your body adjust. So after dinner we
were all exhausted and called it a night.
The
next day we went back to the plaza to get some pictures in the
daytime and to visit our trek office to finalize the details of our
adventure. We had lunch on a terrace with the perfect view of the
plaza followed by a walking tour of the city given by our trek guide,
Nico. By the end of the walking tour I was tired of walking and
wondering how I was every going to survive the next five days of
hiking.
We
went to super delicious and fancy restaurant for dinner called
Cicciolina. It was a restaurant that was so fancy, they placed fresh
napkins on the table to cover our mess before dessert. We were all
fat and happy afterwards, but Walli wouldn't let us take a cab, we
had to walk back to our apartment. Then we got all packed for the
Salkantay trek. Side note: Salkantay means “The savage one...”
Day
1
Usually
the trek starts at 4AM, but one of the girls in our group lost her
luggage during transit and it was supposed to be delivered at 7AM to
the Cusco airport. So we delayed our start to go to the airport so
she could pick up her stuff, but it wasn't delivered so everyone had
to lend her things so she could go on the trek. Since we left Cusco
way later than usual, they actually just drove us to our first
campsite in Soraypampa. It was a beautiful three hour drive through
the mountains; although a little frightening when we were going
around sharp turns right on the edge of the mountain. When we got the
the site, our tents were already set up and lunch was being served.
We were the only ones camping in the surrounding area, which was very
nice. We had a crew of four: our guide, Nico; our cook, Luis; the
assistant, Primo (not sure of his actual name, but that was the
nickname he was given); and our horse boy, Christian. Walli and
myself are vegetarians and therefore the whole group had to eat
vegetarian all week. Luckily, Luis was such a great cook. It was
amazing what he could whip up in the middle of nowhere.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjZmxBVFtv9kNz7ktUi-i_3DVC2z-MbCfE61RPkp7cvrBwKT4aQsVLzgN_Ma_-Qo5s2JDN1rktnkxZ2Dr7ZMeI_6rGF-j3Pc0rBp4flSNPXtvAT7jOodm5a_RAYrgjeG2GWICUg7xFLUrA/s1600/BIMG_2284.JPG) |
Our "Family"- Primo, Tracey, Walli, Nico, me, Luis, Lane, and Christina |
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Camp #1 |
After
lunch, we took a three hour hike to a glacier lake, Lake Humantay.
This was my favorite part of the whole trip. The views were
unbelievable.
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Tracey and I ready to go |
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Happy Cow |
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtP7gkgBgFJqzD7mzw-QPZ2oHMsxVOqQyMau54hyphenhyphenfuLWmql9q_CvOAF2PvCN2UlTY4CjIFl-k4wzM0s60JbnkNKVlBQCANV7rLeWzdQc0KqCUGXW2AdxkHkn5eKCGE5sUkB7Qs4dJMcToq/s1600/BGOPR0648.JPG) |
Lake Humantay |
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ218VeXkDUfAG19hxK9SDaDgqcQP3RHby5DXGKVow1jE0dfMfSE2rdiwp5Axi45JqUJE8-NfzVUaNf5xREgm5BKb977alZS8fyOdDS3WshS2G602973AgkEGxhx0HLP6Hfj5a281oePyP/s1600/BGOPR0657.JPG) |
Our Group |
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqzAM4nO1Jk7dSLABmRlkp9mmXFvoixcOcF6sNGqcHdvOsmDG2qlqC8vUwzNjXoHvtO_JMkaTXULDHs15h5QygRdu-36U1TquC6L-RrQI58E3QF4-oxlkaj09y9X3PKGid51G5MfFsTZRx/s1600/BGOPR0650.JPG) |
Couple Selfie |
Later
we had a nap time and then dinner (we even had a bottle of wine!) and
off to bed early in preparation for the hardest section the next day.
Day
2
The
second day was by far the most difficult, but has the best views. It
was a four hour hike to summit the mountain. Even though it got more
difficult to breathe as we climbed higher, I enjoyed the ascent much
better than the descent. We made it all the way to 4,600 m (15,100
ft)!
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQfzc70Fl6UCWX_wiE2LDZRW_x_G3dL7PNhbFniWYItLmn8s2Qtlk-yRfJtDnbBCbWR0H3YTyuTy0raX6wAaBA1WlgkELqfpSo2d25L5CQPhoPIidnl91RnfPK0-QmhS39Co2ZluVfKkhP/s1600/BDSC00042.JPG) |
Beginning of a Long Day |
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Full of Energy |
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Chewing on Coco Leaves - Yuck |
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Slowly Losing Layers - Still Trekking |
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Brrrrr |
As
soon as we got to the top it started snowing! So we didn't stick
around long to rest and enjoy the accomplishment, which was alright
with me because I really noticed how it was more difficult to
breathe. Unfortunately, the snow turned into rain and you couldn't
see any of the amazing views that you knew were just hiding behind
the clouds. We walked down two and a half hours before we finally
made it to our lunch spot. At that point, I was done hiking. It was
cold and rainy and you couldn't see anything!
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQvki6IEFerZui9sYQr25nsKXK9Hs8Yrp4ijhyphenhyphen3zAxe1pbHSd3Sj_z0vQNFMTwIDynZiFzek-i4xQL-q3Tx5edNwlE2JmNSO33PICS-wwguauI33ohfbtEaJH0evdyj36SAWV16mP0x1Rc/s1600/BDSC00132.JPG) |
View of our Descent... |
Lunch
helped a little, but then it was another 4 hours downhill to our
campsite. The rain finally stopped, but the trail was so muddy; I was
thankful I had walking sticks, but it was still not easy. The last
hour my knees were hurting so bad, I just wanted to stop walking. I
was so thankful when we finally made it to our campsite. This one was
a compound where everyone was camping. When I sat (fell) down into
our tent, I almost cried because of the pain in my lower legs and
feet. Going downhill was way harder than uphill and I hadn't had any
training of downhill.
We
had another good meal, popped some Vitamin I, drank some wine and
slept very well.
Day
3
We
couldn't take the normal trek trail through the jungle because of
landslides that had occurred due to the heavy rains so we walked
along a road for four hours to our lunch spot. It wasn't too
fascinating or too bad until the last hour when my knees began to
ache again. It was really painful.
But a nice surprised awaited us at
lunch, Luis had baked a birthday cake for Tracey over a fire! So we
sang and celebrated, it was fun.
Thankfully we didn't have to walk
anymore that day. Instead, we took a van to the hot springs in Santa
Theresa where we would camp for the night. We soaked in the hot
springs, had dinner, and soaked in the hot springs some more. It felt
soooooo good on my legs. My calves were extremely tight and they hurt
so bad, but the warm water helped a lot.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh96jDHHkmY6YqRnp2QmVyC0V63_e6HPnGvgySLHBOeDGUa3UOYhPJVOC8XH0k9bcIGz3EZjyWDCDJx-BIdeSL3_W1WbWxVpLZFCdKidDSyXD9ThYESKEpQOSfukvYTvXO9f47HUHbvCohI/s1600/BGOPR0805.JPG) |
In the Hot Spring |
Day
4
The
group split up on this day. Walli and Christina walked to the lunch
spot, Tracey took a van (she dislocated her knee the day before), and
Lane and I decided to go zip lining. I had never been zip lining
before, but I had always wanted to try. When we got to the first
line, I was pretty nervous, but it was still worth it to have a break
from walking; and it turned out to be really fun! We went across five
zip lines and finished with a suspension bridge. The bridge was not
fun. There were a few young men who thought it was funny to shake the
whole bridge and jump up and down and I did not enjoy that.
After
that little detour we took a van to the lunch spot and met up with
“the family.” For the afternoon, we split into two groups, Walli
and Christina walked to Aguas Calinetes and the rest of us took the
train (Lane and I are just such great friends that we couldn't let
Tracey go by herself). When we got to the small town, we checked into
our hotel and took a real shower! After cleaning up and turning into
real humans again, we went out for pizza, beers, and really bad
karaoke. It was so great to sleep in a bed that night.
Day
5
We
woke up at 4AM on Friday to catch a bus to Machu Picchu. When we got
the the bus station there was already a long line of people ready to
go. But it wasn't a Venezuelan line, they transport thousands of
people to Machu Picchu daily so it was efficient and we got to the
park in no time. The morning clouds were still burning away when we
got in, but it was still incredible to see the whole city on the top
of the mountain. Nico gave us a tour and history of the Incas. The
more I learned about them, the more I was impressed. Only about 500
people lived at Machu Picchu and only over a 100 year span, but the
work they did is amazing. At 10 AM, we had tickets to hike to Huayna
Picchu. Again, I had booked this for us, without realizing that it
meant that we were going to hike the high peak behind Machu Picchu
that was 45 minutes of straight stairs. But we made it to the top and
from there you could see the whole ruins. After coming back down,
Lane and I went too see the Inca Bridge while the others took the bus
back to town. The bridge wasn't anything too exciting, but it really
illustrated how dangerous some of the Incan trails were; they were
extremely narrow and right on the edge of a cliff. We got back to
town around 3PM and were so ready to sit down and eat. Then we wasted
time drinking and eating and playing Jenga until our train left at
10PM. I passed out on the two hour train ride and then on the two
hour van ride and then when we got back to the apartment, I was
exhausted.
Saturday
we slept in! It was much needed after our trekking adventure. Then we
went to a late brunch in the main plaza for the last time and said
our goodbyes to our guide. Then back to our apartment to pack and
send Lane off to the airport :(
That
night, Walli was really sick. Somehow she had gotten double pink eye
and a horrible cough. So Tracey and I went out to get her medicine
and pick up some food. The only bad thing about staying in the
non-tourist area, is that not one single restaurant would take a
credit card. And since we were leaving the next morning, we didn't
want to take out more local currency. So we went home tired and
grumpy. The landlord saw us on the way back and insisted he could
help somehow. I am telling you, Peruvians are the nicest people ever.
First, he exchanged money with us, then he called to order us pizza,
and then he even delivered the pizza to us.
I
was sad to leave the next day. I will definitely visit Peru again. It
is a gorgeous country with such kind people. Not to mention, they
speak beautiful Spanish that even I was able to understand.